Digital Love

Daft Punk. Air. Water. Those are my three most important things for survival, in order of importance. I love Daft Punk like Gollum loves the One Ring. This post, however, is not just a window into my worship of our robot DJ gods: It’s also a kickass instructional guide on how to make both Daft Punk helmets. That photo above, by the way, is me.

A number of pictures and articles can be found online about DIY Daft Punk suits, but the vast majority lack technical detail, or end up looking like a deformed baseball helmet. The few sculptors that have made perfect replicas spent thousands of dollars, and use expensive prop-making tools that the majority of us don’t have. That said, I absolutely love their work, but this post is about getting 90% of the way there at 10% of the cost and time.

I made both Daft Punk helmets back in 2007, with no prior knowledge of the tools required. This article will shed some light on that process, and show you how to make your own kickass helmets. I wouldn’t describe this process as ‘easy’, but it’s totally doable and fun as hell!

Tools Required

Everything you can imagine.

Seriously, I needed a lot of things. Screwdrivers, hammers, saws, shears, torches, heat guns, a million other things, and sandpaper. Ohhh, the sandpaper. Each step requires its own materials, so expect a lot of trips to the hardware store. At the very least, you’ll need a garage to work in. A workshop would be amazing, but I did it in my friend’s garage.

Time Required

3 weeks—3 months (It’s up to you)

You could blast through this in a couple weeks if you don’t have a job or school. Unfortunately, most of us only have nights and weekends, so this project will require some insane dedication. I did over the course of many weekends in 2007, and a few more in 2008 when I made an updated helmet. Fortunately the payoff is walking around like Daft Punk, so it is worth it. If you’re in rush to make a Daft Punk Halloween costume, you can never start too early.

1. Planning & Drawing

Before anything is built, you’ll need to know what you’re building. Ultimately you’ll end up with helmets that you can wear, but there are plenty of other devices to be built along the way.

You’ll be building the following items: a wire cutter (unless you have one), a styrofoam helmet mold, a bondo helmet mold, a vacuum-form machine (unless you have one), and the final helmets.

The first major piece will be the first mold. And if its going to fit on your head, you better figure out how big your head is. I built both helmets with my friend Brandon, so we took turns taking pictures of each others’ heads. Basically a side-view of your skull that you can drop into Photoshop. Then we displayed side-views of Daft Punk’s helmets on top of our heads, and positioned them to make sure they fit.

Also, laying down and having your friend trace your head is a fun and wonderful way to make sure you get a 100% accurate size of your noggin. Spend a lot of time drawing your head and a general helmet over it to make sure your final helmet will actually fit.

2. Hot Wire Cutter

The first mold will be made of Styrofoam, and you’ll need a hot wire cutter to shape it. Large versions are often used by sculptors and architects to make models. Essentially it’s a long, hot piece of wire that melts the foam as you push it against the wire. You can buy a fancy one online, or be quick and dirty and build your own. We built our own. When I say ‘we’ I’m referring to my friend Brandon who built the helmets with me.

Wire Cutter Construction:

These are less complicated than they sound. We built a simple platform and arm out of wood. A sheet of plywood with a hole drilled in the middle served as the base. Some 2x4s and 2x2s are used, but anything will do. The wire is a guitar string. You’ll want a string with medium thickness, as the thin ones will break, and the thick ones are too hard to maneuver. You’ll basically tie the string around a screw or post at either end and keep it very tight. Buy a handful of strings, they will break.

How does the guitar string heat up? Well, you’ll need a transformer: 25 volt / 2 amps works, but so do plenty of others. Ideally you’ll want one with a knob or switch, so you can control the current. The electrical current will be applied directly to both ends of the guitar string usually by wires with alligator clips at the end. Turn on the transformer, and it will create a circuit. Guitar strings, however, aren’t good conductors. Unlike copper wire, steel wire will heat up significantly when electricity is applied. It’ll glow red hot.

There are million instructions on how to make a hot wire cutter, so use these as references: Making Foam Tools, and Building a Hot Wire Foam Cutter. There’s plenty on Google

3. Styrofoam Cubes

You’ll need to shape your mold out of at least a 12×12″ foam cube. I’d suggest 14×14″ or even bigger, just to give you some wiggle room. Where exactly do you pick up giant cubes of foam? You don’t. This is a specialty item, and we didn’t want to wait for an online shipment. So we made our own cube.

Styrofoam cube construction:

Buy a large sheet of thick foam from Lowe’s or Home Depot. These are generally used as insulation in walls, and come in six foot sheets, twelve foot sheets, etc. You’ll want to ask the staff to saw them in half – at least – so you’ll fit them in your car. Ultimately you’ll need to make roughly 12x12x~2″ (or 14x16x~2″) squares out of this, but it’s best to buy the foam in as large of sheets as possible.

Use your wire cutter to cut squares of equal size. Depending on thickness, you may need anywhere from eight to fifteen squares to stack up a full cube. We used spray adhesive to join the squares together. Spray, then stack, then wait. Continue the process until you have cubes large enough to sculpt a helmet from. Adding significant weight on top of your foam cubes ensures a good bond.

4. Foam Mold Construction

Brandon at our messy foam workstation, circa 2007.

This is where your hard work ends, and your harder work begins. Sculpting the first mold is both artistically and technically challenging, so expect to spend a lot of time getting this perfect.

You’ll need the drawings of your head and the helmet for the foam cube. We started by drawing a side-view of the helmet, a front-view, and a top-view onto our cubes. If you’ve ever taken a drafting class, this will be familiar. The side-view is a profile, the front-view looks like the face of the helmet, and the top-view will essentially be an oval.

We looked at tons of photos. Do a Google image searches for Daft Punk and save every single angle you can find. Some great resources: Hedi Slimane, Google image searches for “Electroma”, and searches for “Daft Punk Helmets”.

Now you need to carve your three views with the hot wire cutter. Obviously if you carve one view entirely, and rip off the excess foam, then your other two drawings will be gone. My approach was to carve 3/4 of a view, then stop, go back, and do 3/4 of the next view, and so on.  That way less pieces fall off, and you can use your drawings as a guide for a bit longer.  Keep in mind, that very quickly, most of your drawing will be laying in bits on the floor. The views on each side of the cube are helpful, but you’ll have a lot of artistic license.

Important note: Go very slowly with the hot wire cutter.  Moving too fast cause the string to bend into a bow shape, which means the center of the string is lagging behind the top. This can cause awkward waves resulting in the top looking fine, but the bottom being extremely warped.  You are cutting through a lot of foam, so give yourself a bit of excess space. The exact helmet shape will be sanded, the wire cutting is just for a big, rough outline.

2007 – Left: Brandon working on the Guy helmet. Right: Me working on the Bangalter Helmet. Oh the hair.

Sand. Sand. Sand.

After wire cutting your cube, you’ll have an amorphous Daft Punk-esque blob. It will takes hours upon hours, even days upon days of sanding to make a perfect model.

Start by carving with knives and razors. This is great for cutting off big unnecessary chunks. For both helmets, I suggest cutting off the ears. On Thomas Bangalter’s (silver) helmet the ears are concentric circles, and on Guy-Manuel’s (gold) helmet they’re large ‘U’ shapes with protruding circles. These are much easier to make separately and attach later.

To sand the mold down, we needed sanding blocks.  Using paper with your hand alone gets aggravating really quickly. The blocks will save your fingertips and your sanity, all while producing a cleaner, more accurate surface.

Thomas Bangalter’s silver helmet will hereby be known as “Bangalter”, while Guy-Manuel de Homem-Christo’s gold helmet will be known as “Guy”, alright?

Bangalter’s helmet has a large visor on the front, so sanding in large horizontal motions works really well. Guy’s helmet is almost entirely a large dome, so moving in sweeping large circles repeatedly is a great way to achieve a smooth surface. Bangalter’s helmet has a lot of hard edges and ridges in the face, so I used the edge of the sanding block pretty often to get all of the tight corners.

Sanding the foam will produce a lot of dust, so be careful. Sweep dust away, work outside, or use a mask to prevent breathing the dust in. Clearing dust away also helps you get a clearer look at the overall shape.

You’ll want to start with high grit sandpaper: 80-100 grit. Get the general shape outlined, then move on to 200 grit, 400 grit, etc. Get as absolutely precise as you can, but there are a lot more layers added later.

Helmet Ears

Use the hot wire cutter to carve the shapes of the ears. Then sand them as accurately as possible, using photos as a guide.  These can be attached with spray adhesive or bondo.

5. Bondo. Lots of Bondo.

As you can see, a lot of time spent sanding leads to some pretty kickass results. Constantly monitor your source photos. Pay attention to all the details, and you’ll have a pretty stunning foam helmet. Unfortunately foam is just the base. You’ll need a mold that’s as hard as concrete if you want it to withstand the casting later on, which means you’ll need Bondo.

Bondo is a polyester resin normally used for auto body repair. More accurately, its a stinky, toxic silly putty that turns hard as rock in a matter of hours. Let me reiterate that: Bondo gets very hard, very fast. That’s what she said. Sanding the foam helmet is easy, sanding the Bondo helmet is a bitch. Get as accurate as you can with the foam model, but realize you’ll be spending a lot more time on the hardened Bondo than you’d expect.

You can buy Bondo from any large hardware store. It consists of a grey putty, and a red hardener. Mix the two together and you’ll have thick, viscous brown butter that can be applied to your foam helmet. We used disposable plastic cups and knives to mix and apply our Bondo. Bondo can set in as little as fifteen minutes so you’ll go through a lot of cups and knives.  Don’t use the Bondo on any expensive tools unless you want to throw those tools away later.

Spread the Bondo carefully, thickly, and evenly. I can’t stress being careful enough. What may seem like a little wet drip on some corner of the helmet could turn into 45 minutes of sanding a few hours later. The smoother your wet Bondo is, the easier it is to sand. Start sanding as soon as it feels dry to the touch. Bondo gets progressively hard over a few hours, so the sooner you start the easier it will be on your arms.

Crappy 2007 cellphone photos – Left: Brandon Bondo-ing Guy’s helmet. Right: Me Bondo-ing Bangalter’s helmet.

Keep applying Bondo. Every nook, every cranny. The foam is really just a platform for an indestructible rock-like mold. Make sure the Bondo layer isn’t too thin. Thin areas will lead to cracks, which would wreck the mold.

Both helmets after having received round one of Bondo and a good sanding.

Sanding the Bondo layer is rough. Any bumps or divets can be painful to get rid of. Sanding can take days. Above you can see green lines on Guy’s helmet. This was to indicate where we had not added enough Bondo. When we sanded it broke through back to the foam, where the spray adhesive ridges are. It is very very important to cover these up completely. We attempted a plastic cast later on, and these ridges – although almost invisible – were greatly amplified. That cast had to be thrown away.

Keep mixing more Bondo, and keep applying it to any thin areas, and especially areas with divets or holes. You can always sand a bump down, but a divet is impossible to fix without filling it in. Using the sanding block on both Bangalter and Guy’s helmets at this stage is essential. Bondo is too hard to sand by hand, plus the sanding blocks will give a smoother finish.

Close up of the round one Bondo coating.

6. Even More Bondo

2007 – Left: Holding my Daft Punk baby. Right: Brandon holding his Daft Punk baby.

The first hard layer of the molds is pretty rough (somewhere between concrete and sandstone). While definitely durable, all of the little scratches and ridges would totally wreck the plastic cast. This is where the final layer comes in: Sealer.

What goes on top of the Bondo is type of sealant. In our case it was a lot like the Bondo hardener, a red putty that would spread and harden. The difference is that its harder, thus it can be sanded with a much finer grit. We’re talking 400 grit up to 1000 just be safe. This sealer was used specifically to cover scratches, fill gaps, and cover divets.

Same process: Cover the mold, and sand it for hours. The sanding block and hand sanding are beneficial at this point. Keep in mind that this is the final mold – any scratches at all will be present in the final helmet – so details are really important.  The ears are probably the most problematic section. You don’t want the ears to appear goopy or uneven, so a lot of time should be spent thickening and perfecting the sharp ear shapes on both models.

Have patience. Sanding the sealer goes slowly, but it’s extremely important. Get both molds perfect, as you absolutely will not want to come back to sanding after you start casting.

Almost finished molds.

You may or may not notice some discolorations in your mold. This is due to sanding through the sealer and into the original Bondo. This isn’t that bad, but can make for an awkward look. We did whatever we had to do to get a smooth finish, so this meant sanding through sealer until everything was even.

7. Vacuum-Form Machine

If you’re really lucky – and I mean really lucky – you already have access to a professional vacuum forming machine. Professional prop makers have them, so do fabrication companies, and the Mythbusters. That’s about it, so you’ll probably have to make your own. Fortunately that’s what I did: Here’s how to do it.

A vacuum formed cast requires two things: Heat and suction. The heat is applied to a large sheet of plastic which causes it to sag. The suction is applied below the plastic, which is sucked tightly around the mold. The plastic quickly cools and you have a perfect plastic copy of your mold. This actually would allow you to make dozens of Daft Punk helmets if you wished. We probably made a dozen, but only two or three that ever turned out awesome enough to keep.

The machine consists of two main parts:  A vacuum / suction table, and a frame for the plastic.  The vacuum table is essentially a large box – attached to a shop vac – with holes drilled on the top to allow air through. The frame is not unlike a picture frame, wrapping around the edges of the plastic to hold it in place as it sags.

Our vacuum table was essentially 4 2x4s with plywood on either side. Every corner is sealed with a hot glue gun, to ensure good suction (that’s what she said). There is a large 1″ hole on top to mount a pole that the mold can rest on, and a ~1″ hold to plug the shop vac tube into. You absolutely need to have the mold floating a bit above the surface, as seen here, otherwise the plastic can’t get sucked around the edges. You can mount the mold on a pole by drilling a large hole into the bottom of the Styrofoam.

That baby powder is also a tool. Sprinkling baby powder (talcum powder) on the mold will help prevent the cast from sticking and give you a better release when you’re finished (that’s what she said).

Unfortunately, I never knew I’d write a blog post about this work three years after I did it, so I don’t have any pictures of the plastic frame. But it’s dead simple. You need to take a measurement of your oven because its where you’ll heat up the plastic. Find the largest size frame you could fit into your oven: That’s the size you’ll make your frame and your vacuum table.

Let’s say the size is 18×24″ (could be larger or smaller). You’ll need to cut plastic sheets (more on that in a second) at 18×24″ with a frame and table that are 18×24″. It’s okay if the table is larger, but the frame needs to be the same size or smaller so you can press it against the table to form a seal.

The frame we built was a large 1″ wide rectangle. One on top of the plastic sheet and one below. These were screwed together through the plastic to discourage slippage. This means every cast required screwing and unscrewing – which wasn’t ideal – but we had limited options.

10. The Plastic Helmet

Now it’s helmet making time. Everything else is a prelude to this step.

The plastic we used was Polyethylene Terepthalate Glycol. Also known as Pet-G. It’s awesome plastic for thermoforming, which is what a vacuum form machine does. This plastic starts sag (melt) at a relatively low temperature, and hardens pretty strong. Additionally, there are transparent versions of Pet-G, which is necessary becuase we’ll need to see out of these Daft Punk helmets. Yay Polyethylene Terepthalate Glycol Halloween costumes!

You can find the exact .060″ thick 24×48″ sheets we purchased here: US Plastics – .060″ Pet-G

I cut these 24×48″ sheets into three 16×24″ pieces each. You’ll make a lot of mistakes with your first casts so its important to buy several sheets, enough for a dozen casts.

Mount a sheet in a frame, and pre-heat the oven. If you’re not comfortable using your own oven – as this releases a bit of toxic fumes – use somebody else’s oven! They’ll never know. Like I said earlier, make sure your frame and sheets are sized to fit exactly into whatever oven you’re using (with perhaps 1/2″ wiggle room so you don’t get stuck, that’s what she said).

An ideal temperature for this plastic was around 275 degrees Fahrenheit, but you may want to play with that. Place the frame with the plastic inside the heated oven. Now watch carefully for 3-6 minutes, you’ll need an oven with a window to monitor the sag. The ‘sag’ is how much the middle of your plastic sheet droops. The hotter and weaker the plastic sheet gets, the more its pulled down by gravity.  There is a minimum sag needed, a few inches, in order properly wrap the hot plastic around the whole helmet. There is also a maximum sag, a point where the plastic becomes so weak that it falls to the oven floor.  I suggest lining the bottom of your oven with tin foil to prevent major damage.

Get your plastic sheet to an optimum weakness / sag (perhaps 6″). Ideally you’ll have partner ready with the vacuum table.  Your mold should be mounted on the table, with a bit of baby powder. The shop vac should be plugged in and turned on. It’ll be really loud, but this only takes a few seconds.

For both helmets, you’ll need to cast twice. One for the front, and one for the back. The entire helmet cannot be removed from the mold in one piece.  Try angling the helmet on the table specifically for a front cast or a back cast.  The real Thomas Bangalter seems to be two pieces as well, so this necessary and accurate. The Guy helmet can be split in front of or behind the ears.

Pull the hot plastic out of the oven with oven mitts. Immediately, and I mean immediately place the frame over the vacuum table with the vacuum table already on.  Press down on all edges to ensure a tight seal and watch as the hot plastic wraps tightly around the mold.  After 30 seconds it should be safe to turn off the vacuum.

There are dozens of websites online that teach the details of vacuum forming. These should help: Vacuumforming Plastic, and Make a Good, Cheap Vacuum Former.

Vacuum forming is hard.  If the plastic is not hot enough, it wont pull tightly. If it’s too hot it will rip. Trial and error is the best way to learn, so buy lots of plastic.

11. Removing the Plastic

By now you have a sexy plastic helmet wrapped around your mold. Unfortunately you now have a large, hard plastic bowl wrapped around a dome. It may seem impossible to get off. There is a solution, and that solution is exacto-knives and strength.

Cut very cleanly with an exacto-knife, around the edges of the helmet.  You should have a lot of excess plastic, so cut right down to the bare minimum of what the helmet needs. Be extremely careful not to press the knife down into the mold itself, you don’t want to start sanding again!

Clear plastic cast of the Bangalter helmet. Still dusty with baby powder.

This is another process with a lot of trial and error. For the Bangalter helmet you’ll be making a clean cut across the very top of the helmet. Look at reference photos for the exact location.  Be sure sure to include 1/2—1″ of overlap so the pieces can be joined together later.

Front and back pieces of the Bangalter helmet.

12. Painting & Other Bits

Almost there. After all of the effort you’ve put in you could choose to have your plastic helmet chromed by professionals. There are companies that specialize in giving metallic mirror finishes to plastic. Due to time, budget, and logistical constraints it may make far more sense to simply paint the helmets. We chose to paint both of our helmets.

Before you open up your spray-paint, the halves have to be joined. The most durable solution is fiberglass. This is a relatively simple procedure and all of the materials can be bought at almost any hardware store.  You’ll need sheets of fiberglass, the actual fiberglass resin, and chip brushes. Chip brushes are crappy paint brushes that cost a few cents and are great for fiberglass because they can be thrown away. Fiberglass will wreck almost anything it touches if you let it dry. So you’ll want to use it only on the inside helmet seam and the chip brushes.

The Banglater helmet was joined by a couple of 12″ long strips of fiberglass running along the inside seam. You may want to hold the halves in place with scotch tape on the outside prior to applying the fiberglass.  Unlike Bondo, fiberglass is very slippery and unstable before it is dry.  Make sure you lock the halves in place, placing the back half of the helmet inside and under the front half.  A small amount of overlap is necessary for strength.

You’ll apply the resin on top of the fiberglass strip – making sure to fully soak the fabric – and make contact with the plastic.  After it dries you’ll have a rock solid helmet.

Painting:

The Guy helmet painted gold.

Metallic spray-paint is the obvious choice for both helmets. The first step is to mask the visors. This is a simple process for the Bangalter helmet. A few strips of masking tape cut to a point with an exacto knife.  The Guy Helmet will require a bit more tape, and covering the front with newspaper should speed up the process. No paint should get on the visor, obviously.

Mount the helmet on a pole or anything to get it off of the floor. Chrome spray-paint was used on the Bangalter helmet, metallic gold on the Guy helmet. Do several very thin coats.  Thick coats will drip, and Daft Punk is not drippy.

A note about the chrome spray-paint. It sounds magical, but unfortunately, it’s at its best in very thin coats on surfaces that aren’t to be handled much. I made two separate Bangalter helmets, and even after allowing the paint to dry for days I still got really nasty fingerprints in the paint after trying the helmet on. It’s possible that chrome paint takes a very long time to settle.  Metallic silver might be more forgiving, but a bit less shiny.  The metallic gold on the Guy helmet has no fingerprint issues, but isn’t quite as reflective.

Try buying a few different paints and experimenting with some test plastic.  Nothing saves time and headache like a test.

Visors:

Arguably the sexiest and most important feature of the helmets are the visors.  Guy’s black dome and Bangalter’s dark stripe visor. We tinted both visors in different ways with different results.  The Bangalter helmet uses window-tinting film, found at any auto store.  Normally this is applied on the inside of your back windshield but I used it on the inside of the visor. Its incredibly clear but a nightmare to put on.  Additionally – if you aren’t extremely careful – you’ll create small bubble that can’t be gotten rid of.  My helmet to this day still has small bubbles in the visor. Be very careful with the window film.

A more elegant solution is used on the Guy helmet: Brake-light tint spray. This is a spray that’s used on car brake-lights to make them appear black when they’re off but still allow the light through when the brake-lights turn on. A generous coating on the inside of the dome makes the Guy helmet perfectly black; no bubbles or defects whatsoever. But there is a major downside: Blurriness. Brake-light spray isn’t made for windows or clarity, it’s just for light to pass through. The Guy helmet’s visor is dark, but quite blurry and a bit of a nightmare to wear indoors. The Bangalter visor is a bit messy in bright light due to the bubbles but still gives clear sight.

All that said, both will suffer from the breathing problem. When you wear a plastic dome around your head – in an all leather suit – you’re going to get hot. A hot head with warm breath means your visor will fog up. The actual Daft Punk helmets have fans to cool the guys down. I haven’t installed fans (and don’t intend to) but it may work. Another solution I’ve thought of, but haven’t installed is small mask inside the helmet.  A painter’s mask with a tube directed downward might direct the wearer’s breath outside.

Other Bits:

On the inside of the helmets it’s necessary to add padding.  Weather stripping from a hardware store is a great solution. Its essentially foam strips that are sticky on one side. Padding the sides of each helmet, as well as the back and mouth areas, ensure that the helmet keeps a tight fit.

The Bangalter helmet has a mouth strip and nose strips that have been cut out with an exacto knife. The real Thomas Bangalter helmet does in fact have several nose slits under the visor, they’re just hard to see. This is pretty much essential if you like breathing when you wear the helmet.

The Guy helmet has rows of wires on the back, and microchips on the ears.  Any old motherboard or remote control can be chopped up for the ears and glued in. The wires can be purchased from a hardware store, and glued in as well. Try getting alternating colors like white, red, green, blue, black, etc.

The Completed Daft Punk Suits Suits

Leather jackets can be bought at any large department store. Leather pants can be found online. Leather boots and leather gloves are easy to find. Go to an outdoor goods store, and you’ll find masks for skiers that project the head and neck. Wearing this black skier mask under the helmet gives you the complete look, and works way better than a turtleneck. Note that awesome leather pants might take a while to find (searching for “motorcycle pants” seems to yield decent results eventually).

So, without further adieu, Brandon wearing Guy-Manuel’s helmet:

And myself wearing Thomas Bangalter’s helmet:

Also check out:

Daft Punk: Final! – Volpin Props

Cosplay.com

Awesome Daft Punk Inspiration – Abduzeedo

Shoot Sucka – Brandon’s DJ Blog

Any thoughts about these Daft Punk helmets? Drop me a line in the comments!

You’re Doing it Wrong.

Many of us, for quite a long time, have been using the word ‘analog’ improperly. As designers, we often refer to analog technologies as being anything preceding digital technology. That’s definitely not the case. So this post is to collectively save us all from ever sounding stupid to technology nerds ever again. And don’t worry, it’s not just us, I’ve seen the same mistake made in the New York Times.

I recall a video that referred to 1950′s classrooms as ‘analog learning’ as opposed to our modern classrooms’ use of computers and the internet. I’ve heard the work of contemporary digital artists and designers compared to the ‘analog art’ of painters. The real kicker, and reason for this post, is those who position film as the ‘analog’ opposite of digital photography.

Film isn’t Analog.

Film is not analog, period. I used to shoot film on a Canon AE-1 from the ’70s. Now I have a digital SLR from Canon, and they’re obviously extremely different. But we have to be careful not to confuse ‘old’ and ‘new’, with two very specific terms like analog and digital.

The word digital, to most people, refers to a device that can capture, store, or display data in a binary fashion. Ones and zeros, on and off, digital is all about numbers. Digital shouldn’t be confused with binary, of course, as digital simply means concrete values. Any system that utilizes solid values (or digits) is digital, binary is simply the most common system. Digital cameras capture light with a sensor, that light is converted into data (numbers), so the use of the word ‘digital’ for your cell phone camera or DSLR is accurate.

Analog, however, is a very abused word. I would venture a guess that the significant amount of readers have used the word ‘analog’ to refer to film cameras. If the new, fancy robot cameras are ‘digital’ then our aging film cameras are ‘analog’, right?  Not at all. Older cameras capture light with film, which is basically plastic, gelatin, and silver halide. When you take a photo (perhaps of your dog drinking a beer), photons hit this material and produce a latent (invisible) image, that can later be brought into view by bathing the film in various chemicals. You could write hundreds of blog posts on film development alone, but the point is that film photography is a chemical process.

Digital sensors and film capture light quite differently, but I’d rather hear the word ‘chemical’, ‘organic’, or ‘magic’ given to film technology before ‘analog’.

Wait, What the Fuck is Analog Then?

Analog, as its name suggests, refers to being analogous to something. If we’re referring to the adjective used in technology, the definition of analog is:

Of, relating to, or being a device in which data are represented by continuously variable, measurable, physical quantities, such as length, width, voltage, or pressure. – Wordnik

So a great example of an analog technology would be a vinyl record. The audio is stored as waves (variable data) within the grooves of the vinyl. Digital audio stores the data as numbers, as finite units of data per second. If that audio is George Clinton & Parliament Funkadelic, then funk on my brotha’. What’s important is that a vinyl record is legitimately something that deserves to be called ‘analog’. Film is not. Film captures the image physically, there is no data (waves or otherwise) to be found as there is on the record.

Plenty of older (and current) technologies are analog. Just be sure to ask yourself if that device has variable signals/data, or if that device is just really old. A television with a cathode ray tube (CRT) is an analog device; a cave painting of a man stabbing a mastodon with a spear is not. Sound waves being converted into an electrical signal is analog, a film negative is not.

Stop Saying Analog?

I know its hip to be anti-digital sometimes. But before we all drink a PBR and hop on our fixed gear bikes to the thrift store, we have to remember that just because something is old, doesn’t make it ‘analog’. 35MM cameras, oscilloscopes, and the cotton gin are all old technologies, but only one of them is an analog device.

We pride ourselves in the design industry for knowing tons of interesting things about art, advertising, and technology, but this is one adjective we should all cut back on a bit. The good news is we will always have our favorite noun: analogue! We can still say: “A picture is an analogue of a memory”, or “A cubic zirconia is an analogue of a diamond”, and “McDonalds is an analogue of real food.”

Somewhat Related Stuff:

Shake It Photo (iPhone App, makes your digital photos look like Polaroids)

35MM Mondays (Film shots, on a blog by Luke Williams, every week)

Alt/1977 (Alex Varenese’s badass retro posters)

Thoughts? Leave a digital comment!

Mo’ Images = Mo’ Problems

My work folder currently has 32,000 files in it. An unbelievable amount of them are images or image related (JPEGS, GIFs, PNGs, PSDs, AIs, etc.). As an interactive designer, I can easily accrue hundreds of images throughout the design (and development) process. While I may let all my local files multiply like rabbits, it’s important not to bring this chaos onto the web. The number of images used in a website design can get wild pretty quickly, so it’s important for us as designers to have a weapon to reign them in, not unlike the Ghostbusters.

What’s a CSS Sprite, Daddy?

Well technically a sprite is just an image.  CSS is then used for separation and reorganization of that image. The sprite itself is generally used to combine many small images into one large image. This is done not only save precious loading time and bandwidth, but also to keep your site structure clean and manageable.

How Image Sprites Save Time

Suppose you have fancy navigation bar on your website, with 8 links. Suppose said links each had a fancy rollover, the kind with that ‘glow’ and ‘twinkle’ that makes your clients drool. In the past (or today if you aren’t yet using the CSS sprite technique) this would require 8 separate images, with another 8 images for the hover state. That’s a total of 16 images for the navigation alone.  That’s 16 files you’d have to create, optimize, name, and save. 16 files you’d have to call in your stylesheet, and upload through FTP. Worst of all, that’s 16 HTTP requests on your server from a visitor. While the images may be very small, each request takes time, and ultimately increases the loading time for your page.

Instead, one could create a sprite showing all of the links with each of their rollover states  as one image. This means one HTTP request. When dealing with dozens of small images, this technique can often cut loading time for images in half.

How the CSS Sprite Technique Keeps it Clean

Here’s some example CSS for 4 links with rollovers. 8 images are called because there is no use of the sprite technique. Each link has its own image, and each link has its own rollover image… these links are greedy.

.link_one {background-image:url(img/link_one.png);}
.link_two {background-image:url(img/link_two.png);}
.link_three {background-image:url(img/link_three.png);}
.link_four {background-image:url(img/link_four.png);}
.link_one:hover {background-image:url(img/link_one_hover.png);}
.link_two:hover {background-image:url(img/link_two_hover.png);}
.link_three:hover {background-image:url(img/link_three_hover.png);}
.link_four:hover {background-image:url(img/link_four_hover.png);}

While that may not seems like a huge problem, imagine if you wanted to change the color of ALL those image links one day.  That’s 8 separate times you’d have to open a file, change a color, and save it. Do this for larger menus, sidebar items, or footer areas, and you’ll quickly have a massive pile of images that you have to maintain. This almost always leads to designers abandoning beneficial changes on their websites because “It’ll take too long!”

Here’s what some of your CSS would look like were you to move all those images into a single sprite:

.link {background-image:url(img/link.png);}

.one {background-position:0px 0px;}
.two {background-position:20px 0px;}
.three {background-position:40px 0px;}
.four {background-position:60px 0px;}
.one:hover {background-position:0px -20px;}
.two:hover {background-position:-20px -20px;}
.three:hover {background-position:-40px -20px;}
.four:hover {background-position:-60px -20px;}

Obviously this is a bit cleaner, but the important takeaway is that if you wanted to edit the look of ALL of these links at once, you could. Simply drop that sprite into Photoshop, re-save, and you’ve fixed them all at once.

Alright, so you understand that it WOULD save you time and energy, but you don’t know how to make a sprite? Who could possibly teach you how to do this on your very own? Perhaps its…

TERRIFIC TUTORIAL TIME!

How to make a CSS sprite based navigation of your very own:

1. Let’s say you want to make a simple navigation with 4 links. We’ll go with the most basic essential links here: ‘Home’, ‘About’, ‘Pterodactyl’, and ‘Contact’. Go ahead and create a quick mockup in Photoshop of some navigation like this, or apply the following steps to your own current web projects.

2. Make sure you have one layer set as the default ‘normal’ state. This is how the links will generally appear in your design. Also create another layer that shows all of the links in their ‘hover’ state. In this case I’ve altered the styling, color, and added an underline. Ideally your link size shouldn’t change (If you’re smart you can technically get away with it, just make sure you give ample space for that growth in the sprite, we’ll touch on that later).

3. We need to single out the navigation now, and make it its own image. You can copy your navigation only, create a new image by hitting Ctrl+N (Cmd+N for Mac Folk), and paste it in. Please note in my example I’ve done a more complex selection around the links, preserving the transparency. You can learn how to do that in my Transparency in .PNGs article, but dragging a simple rectangular selection around your menu items is perfectly fine as well.

4. Double the canvas size of your navigation image by choosing Image > Canvas Size… (Alt+Ctrl+C or Alt+Cmd+C). You can double the height without doing any math by simply checking off ‘Relative’ and increasing the height by 100% (or don’t click it, and increase by 200%, I won’t stop you). Your resulting canvas should now have enough room to paste in your ‘hover’ version below your ‘normal’ version.

5. Uh oh! Remember I said the link size shouldn’t change, and this is why. Adding an underline technically makes the ‘hover’ links a bit taller than the ‘normal’ links. Simply giving room for the bottom underline will cause a huge headache later on in the CSS. We’ll need to add space on the bottom of each row.

6. In this case, adding 3 pixels to the bottom of each row did the trick. If your links have added hover effects, just be sure to include extra space in the sprite so that the corresponding normal link is the same size. That’s true for both horizontal and vertical space.

7. Now you can eliminate the negative space in your image. This slightly decreases your file size, but more importantly it makes the bit of math we’ll do in the CSS much easier. You won’t have to count the pixels in between the margins of your sprite if you simply line everything up next to each other. The amount of background-position shifting will simply equal the width of the previous link! That was the most boring statement to ever warrant an exclamation point.

.______ {
display:block;
height:__px;
background-image:url(______);
margin__:__px;
float:____;
}

.nav {
display:block;
height:24px;
background-image:url(img/navsprite.png);
margin-left:24px;
float:left;
}

8. The first CSS class you need to write is your parent class. This is the main class that holds all of the similar properties for your navigation. In my case, all of my links are 24 pixels high with a margin of 24px between them. The margin might not be necessary depending on how you styled your links, but in this scenario a quick ‘margin-left’ will work. The background image will obviously be the same for all of our links (that’s the whole point), and the ‘display’ block is simply used because we will be defining a height and width to each of our links.

.______ {
width:__px;
background-position:__px __px;
}

.home {
width:68px;
background-position:0px 0px;
}

9. The second class you need to write applies to the individual link itself. You’ll need to write one for each link in your navigation, as well as another for each hover state (which we’ll get to in a moment). In this case the ‘home’ link has a width of 68 pixels. The ‘background-position’ refers to the point that the background-image will begin to display from. Since ‘home’ is in the upper-left, both the x-axis (horizontal) and y-axis (vertical) will start at 0 pixels.

.home {
width:68px;
background-position:0px 0px;
}
.about {
width:81px;
background-position:-68px 0px;
}
.pterodactyl {
width:165px;
background-position:-149px 0px;
}
.contact {
width:109px;
background-position:-314px 0px;
}

10. As you can see, all 4 links now have their own widths. You can measure the width of each link with your ruler tool. The key here is that each subsequent link is being shifted by a negative number on the x-axis. On the ‘about’ link, it’s essentially telling the background to start 68 pixels deep into the image (where the ‘about’ link just happens to start in the sprite).

Note: Remember that the background-position is cumulative. You must add the measurement of each previous link each time you enter in the position for the next. In this case 68 pixels and 81 pixels is 149 pixels.  Then the ‘pterodactyl’ link is quite wide, another 165 pixels, meaning our ‘contact’ link’s x-axis position starts at -314 pixels. It’s only addition (or subtraction), but a mistake in one early link will mess up the math for all your subsequent links. So double-check frequently!

.home:hover {
background-position:0px -24px;
}
.about:hover  {
background-position:-68px -24px;
}
.pterodactyl:hover  {
background-position:-149px -24px;
}
.contact:hover  {
background-position:-314px -24px;
}

12. To create a ‘hover’ state for your link, simply copy the class and add ‘:hover’ after the class name. It’s unnecessary to repeat the ‘width’ property. Because all of the hover links are directly under the normal links, the y-axis shift is the same as the link height: 24 pixels. It’s a lot simpler here, as you can just paste that in over and over again.

.nav {
display:block;
height:24px;
background-image:url(img/navsprite.png);
margin-left:24px;
float:left;
}

.home {width:68px;background-position:0px 0px;}
.about {width:81px;background-position:-68px 0px;}
.pterodactyl {width:165px;background-position:-149px 0px;}
.contact {width:109px;background-position:-314px 0px;}

.home:hover {background-position:0px -24px;}
.about:hover {background-position:-68px -24px;}
.pterodactyl:hover  {background-position:-149px -24px;}
.contact:hover  {background-position:-314px -24px;}

13. Here’s the completed CSS for the example. All that’s left is to add the links themselves into the HTML.

<a class="nav home"></a>
<a class="nav about"></a>
<a class="nav pterodactyl"></a>
<a class="nav contact"></a>

14. Simply apply both the parent and child classes to each link. In this case ‘nav’ and ‘home’, or ‘nav’ and ‘pterodactyl’ etc.

You just learned something! Specifically, how the CSS sprite technique works, why it is used, and how to create a slick, efficient navigation out of it. Go get yourself a drink. Or get me one, this baby was looonnng.

Give me your thoughts on this technique in the comments!

Banding is one of the universal annoyances that every designer has to deal with.  Although it’s certainly more common among web designers, banding has also given plenty of headaches to print designers and photographers. Banding is a newer problem; unique to the digital realm, as old-school methods of photography and publishing weren’t limited to the digital color space. As the problem and its causes have only been recently defined, many designers may lack the techniques necessary to combat this subtle and tricky problem. If you’re not familiar with the term or are sick of reading this sentence, let’s cut to an image.

Some Banding in Action due to Compression:

This is an overly exaggerated example of banding effects on a photo I took.  In the compressed version on the right, the sky doesn’t contain enough blues to portray a smooth transition. This is because the compressed version is trying to save space by limiting the number of colors used.  This actually works really well in the building section of the photograph because our eyes don’t pick up on subtle brightness changes when looking at busy or high-contrast areas. It’s only when the color jumps from “Slightly Light Blue” to “Slightly Less Light Blue” that we really notice.

It’s as if the compression algorithm thought “Hey man, that looks like solid blue. Six colors ought to cover it–done!” Idiot.

While compression is a common cause of banding, it’s important to remember that all digital images share this property of stepping harshly from one color to the next.  Indeed, each pixel is its own little square, not blending with any pixels around it. Fortunately pixels are much too small for our eyes to detect that stepping.  It’s only when compressors force similar areas of color into much larger groups that we pick up on the changes.

Banding with the Gradient Tool:

The gradient on the left side was created by picking two colors and fading them together with Photoshop’s gradient tool. The gradient on the right side only used one color, and simply faded itself from 100% to 0% opacity.  Obviously they both achieve very similar results, and perhaps that’s why most designers may use the techniques interchangeably. If you look very closely, however, the gradient on the right actually shows some harsh stepping from one shade to the next.

Add some levels adjustments, and you can really see the difference:

The good news is that Photoshop’s gradient tool handles gradients pretty well with multiple colors.  Photoshop does the math and immediately rasterizes the outcome.  Through a combination of dithering and subtle noise the fade is rendered pretty smoothly.  You can even hit the levels or curves adjustments later and it looks decent.  The gradient on the right, however, didn’t have two colors that Photoshop could do the math for, so no dithering or noise could be applied.  Without knowing what color it would be fading to, it simply renders the gradient in bands ranging from 100% opacity to 0% opacity.

Noise is the Solution! Sometimes…

The solution that is often thrown about is “Add a bunch of noise dude!”. While it’s true that adding noise to break up the bands is effective, you have to be careful that you aren’t bringing a bazooka to a knife fight. Adding too much noise unnecessarily will degrade your image and take clarity out of your highlights and shadows.

Fix #1 – Use Two Color Gradients

To prevent banding while using Photoshop’s gradient tool, always use at least two colors. Fading a single color to transparency will not yield pretty results.  If you absolutely must fade a color to transparency, make sure the gradient is small, or that the range of color difference in the gradient is high.  It’s the long and subtle gradients that cause problems.

Fix #2 – Use Noise in One Channel

If you’re experiencing banding when compressing or saving your images, you may want to add noise to prevent noticeable stepping.  If you want to do this without harming ALL of your color data try applying noise to only one channel–ideally, the channel where the most banding is occurring.

1. Select the ‘Channels’ tab next to your layers palette.

2. Click on a color channel.  Perhaps red if you have banding in a sunset photo, or blue if there’s banding in a bright blue sky.  Choose whichever channel works best in your situation.

3. Choose Filter > Noise > Add Noise. Check ‘Gaussian’ as the distribution format. Choose 1-2% as the amount, as you can always add more noise later if necessary.

Save your image out as you did before, and ideally this method should have decreased your level of banding.

Fix #3 – Use Noise in Another Layer

If you absolutely need to maintain a lot of integrity in your photo, but still need to remove banding in some area, try adding the noise to its own layer.

1. Create a new layer and fill it with 50% gray.  That’s about #808080 if you’re working in RGB.

2. Place this layer above the image you’re adding noise to. In the layers palette, choose ‘Overlay’ as the blending mode.

3. Add noise to this gray layer, 2-3% should suffice.

You’ll notice that the noise does not affect any very bright or dark areas of your image.  Because the noise is in ‘Overlay’ mode, you’re free to crank up the noise as high as needed, without destroying the quality of your highlights or shadows.

Another benefit to having the noise in its own layer is that you can use your eraser tool to remove noise from areas where it is not needed.  You could even take one step further, creating a complex mask and applying it to the noise layer, giving you full control over which areas are affected.

No More Banding!

Hopefully some of these ideas got rid of your nasty banding issues.  If you have any other tips or tricks to solve this problem, drop me a line in the comments.

Other Resources to Regarding Banding:

Wikipedia – Posterization

Greyscale Gorilla – How to Remove Banding Artifacts in After Effects

If you’ve designed a website in the past decade (I know, there aren’t many decades to choose from), then you’ve probably run across a situation where you needed an image with transparency. Perhaps you need to see the background through the image, or the image has gaps that need to be transparent. Even more often, you’ll have a relatively solid image, but with complex edges that simply won’t work in a big rectangular JPEG. Logos and other design elements that might move when the browser window is resized, often need transparent edges to look right no matter where they are on the page. Fortunately all of these problems, as you may know, have already been solved with the development of the .PNG image format.

So we’re done! No tips, no tutorial, PNGs have saved the day! Not exactly.

The Pros of the PNG

• Full range of opacity (0%-100%)
• Full range of color (16.7 Million, anyway)

The Dirty Secrets (Cons) of the PNG

• Relatively large file size
• Doesn’t support blending modes
• Doesn’t work in IE6 (If you care about that ugly monster)

These points only apply to 24-bit PNGs, as 24-bit PNGs are the only common format to allow full alpha transparency. Its younger brother, the 8-bit PNG, doesn’t share the same problems (but only supports binary transparency).

Whoa, alpha binary what? Bit? Slow down Star Trek!

Alpha transparency, in short, is the kind of transparency you’re used to in Photoshop. There are varying degrees of opacity, that are all mapped in an alpha channel, those black and white images in your channels palette. PNGs include an alpha channel, so any given pixel in the image can be any given opacity (0%, 32%, 99%, etc.). This is great for shadows, glows, or anything translucent.

Binary transparency, is when robots are invisible. Actually, it’s what it sounds like. Binary means you have two options: 1 or 0, on or off. The same goes for the opacity in a binary transparent image. A pixel is either 100% visible, or totally off. 8-bit PNGs, and GIFs support this simple level of transparency.

Lastly, we won’t get into too much math here, but 24-bit ultimately means the image contains the full range of color data for all 3 color channels. 8 bits of red, 8 bits of blue, 8 bits of green. Add that up, and you can see why it’s 24-bit. 8-bit image formats only support 256 colors, while 24-bit image formats can support 16.7 million.

Problems with your 24-bit PNGs

Obviously full alpha-transparency has its benefits in web design. But with great awesomeness, comes great file sizes. Alpha transparent PNGs are often three or four times larger than their binary counterparts. If your logo, borders, backgrounds, and sprites are all huge 24-bit PNGs, loading times can get slow… fast. While internet speeds are increasing, and this may not seem like a problem, the speeds on mobile phones, netbooks, and 3G wireless networks aren’t quite there yet.

Additionally, it is rarely the case that alpha transparency on its own will solve our design problems. With all of the beautiful uses for the overlay, screen, or multiply blending modes (to name a few)… simply having an image at 50% opacity might seem a little boring.

Old School 8-bit to the rescue!

While alpha transparency is definitely helpful in some cases, let me show you my process for making 8-bit PNGs or GIFs look just as good, at smaller sizes.

Let’s say you wanted a logo to appear on top of a grungy background like the above image. We have a logo with blurred edges, that needs to show strong detail behind it. A 24-bit PNG would certainly do the trick, but we can show all of that detail in an 8-bit PNG or GIF with a few simple steps.

1. Turning off your background layer, your first assumption would be that this image couldn’t possibly work with binary, jagged edges.  Let’s try…

2. Go to File > Save For Web & Devices.  Under presets, choose 8-bit PNG.  Make sure ‘Transparency” is checked.  Then choose a matte color, in this case, black.

3. This is close, but pretty janky.  Even if that black was a little lighter, you’d still not be able to see all the texture in between the letters.  So let’s try something better.

4. Select the logo layer’s alpha by Ctrl+Click-ing on that layer (that’s Cmd+Click on a Mac obviously).  Then copy the merged layers by hitting Shift+Ctrl+C (Shift+Cmd+C for Macs). Open a new file, and paste the merged logo there.

5. Now that the merged file is pasted here, you can see that some of that background data was pulled.  But simply saving the image with no matte would still cause problems, so we first have to bring all of the opacity up to 100%.  Do this by Alt+Click-ing on your logo layer and dragging up or down.  This creates a duplicate of your layer.   Now that you have two copies, select both of the layers by Shift+Click-ing on each of them, and then merge them by hitting Ctrl+E (or Cmd+E).  You now have one slightly more opaque version of what you had before.  Repeat this process four or five times.  Duplicating, merging, duplicating, merging, duplicating, merging until you see that the image is 100% opaque.

6. Your image should now have a janky, but detail rich fringe matte (no pun intended). Go ahead and save it out as a transparent 8-bit PNG, or even a GIF if that floats your boat.  Keep in mind 8-bit PNGs generally have smaller file sizes than GIFs.

7. Voila! You now have a relatively tiny, 8-bit PNG looking just as sexy as its 24-bit counterpart.  Of course, this technique only works if your background stays stationary, but if your background was a horizontal or vertical gradient, then these steps would still work.

Go ahead and try this with your navigation menus, sprites, or borders.  It can save countless kilobytes!

If you have any additional tips, ideas, or thoughts about image transparency, drop me a line in the comments.